Herb Ritts

Herb Ritts – Life, Artistry, and Enduring Vision

Delve into the life, work, and legacy of Herb Ritts (1952–2002), the American fashion and portrait photographer famed for his elegant black-and-white imagery, celebrity portraits, and stylistic minimalism that bridged art and commerce.

Introduction

Herb Ritts (born Herbert Ritts Jr., August 13, 1952 – December 26, 2002) was a towering figure in late 20th-century photography. He is best remembered for his striking black-and-white images, sculptural sensibility, and portraits of celebrities and fashion icons. He managed to combine commercial success with artistic integrity, capturing timeless images that emphasized form, strength, and simplicity. In a career spanning only a few decades, Ritts influenced how we see beauty, celebrity, and the human body—still resonating in fashion and art photography today.

Early Life and Background

Family & Upbringing

Herb Ritts was born and raised in Los Angeles, California.

• His father, Herb Ritts Sr. (née Rittigstein), ran a furniture design/business. His mother, Shirley Ritts, worked in interior design.

• He was the eldest of four children.

• Ritts grew up in the Brentwood neighborhood of Los Angeles.

• The Ritts family business was known for rattan furniture; indeed, some of their designs appeared in films (e.g. Blue Hawaii).

• As a boy, Ritts was neighbors with Steve McQueen, who reportedly played a mentoring or friendly role in his life.

Education & Early Influences

• He attended Palisades High School in L.A.

• Later he enrolled at Bard College (in New York), studying economics and art history.

• After graduating, he returned to Los Angeles and initially worked for the family business.

• His interest in photography emerged gradually. He started with a small camera and took pictures of friends and acquaintances.

• He took evening classes in photography (for example, at the Art Center College of Design in Pasadena).

Ritts often said he was largely self-taught, relying on art history, observation, and experimentation rather than formal photographer training.

Career & Achievements

Early Breakthroughs

• One pivotal moment came in 1978, when Ritts photographed his friend Richard Gere by a broken-down car (a Buick) during a road trip. That set of informal, strong images got attention and helped open professional doors.

• Shortly thereafter, his photos appeared in major magazines like Vogue, Esquire, and Mademoiselle.

• In 1981, he shot Brooke Shields (for Elle) and Olivia Newton-John (for Physical) among his early high-visibility assignments.

These successes helped Ritts transition from amateur portraiture into fashion, celebrity, and commercial photography.

Signature Style & Approach

• Ritts is renowned for his black-and-white photography, often with strong contrast, clean lines, and sculptural forms.

• He frequently drew visual inspiration from classical Greek sculpture, emphasizing the human form in idealized poses.

• Natural elements—light, wind, water, desert landscapes—were often part of his compositions, creating tension between figure and environment.

• He had a minimalist aesthetic: removing unnecessary distractions so the subject (body, face, form) becomes the focus.

Major Works, Clients & Collaborations

• Ritts photographed top-tier clients: fashion magazines (Vogue, Vanity Fair, Harper’s Bazaar, Interview, Rolling Stone) and luxury brands (Calvin Klein, Versace, Chanel, Armani, Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren, among others).

• He also made advertising campaigns and editorial spreads across fashion and culture.

• Beyond still photography, Ritts ventured into motion pictures: he directed music videos (over a dozen) for major artists such as Madonna (“Cherish”), Janet Jackson, Chris Isaak (“Wicked Game”), Michael Jackson, and others.

• He also directed television commercials (more than 50) for top fashion/beauty brands (Chanel, Calvin Klein, Estée Lauder, etc.).

• Over his career, Ritts published several monographs and photography collections (e.g. Pictures, Work, Africa, Notorious) and exhibited internationally.

One of his most iconic images is the 1989 supermodel group shot “Stephanie, Cindy, Christy, Tatjana, Naomi, Hollywood”, which became emblematic of the 1990s supermodel era.

Recognition & Legacy

• Ritts’ work has been exhibited posthumously in major museums (e.g. Museum of Fine Arts, Boston; Getty Museum) and galleries.

• He was honored with awards, including the International Center of Photography’s Infinity Award for Applied Photography.

• The Herb Ritts Foundation continues to preserve and promote his legacy, supporting HIV/AIDS research and photographic arts.

Personality, Challenges & Identity

Openness & Personal Life

• Ritts was openly gay.

• From 1996 until his death, he was in a relationship with entertainment lawyer Erik Hyman.

• He was diagnosed as HIV-positive in 1989, though he never publicly disclosed that diagnosis.

• He died at age 50 from pneumonia; while his HIV status may have weakened his immune system, his death was not from PCP (a common AIDS-related illness).

Artistic Ethos & Character

• Ritts was known for his generosity of spirit, his ability to build trust with subjects, and a calm, composed direction in shoots.

• He was committed to aesthetic discipline—the balance between commercial demands and maintaining a personal visual voice.

• For Ritts, photography was not just about technical mastery but about vision, shape, form, and the poetic.

Selected Quotes by / About Herb Ritts

While Ritts was not as publicly quotable as some artists, his words and the words of those who worked with him reveal insight into his philosophy:

“I’m glad I didn’t go to school for photography … the most important thing I learned was just honing my eye.”

“He liked strength in his pictures… he got you to do things you never thought you could do.” — Naomi Campbell, recalling Ritts’s working method.

(On a model’s presence) “He photographed the human shape in a way that felt timeless, like sculpture.” — common critical observation of his style. (Paraphrase of consensus)

These reflect Ritts’s belief in vision, confidence, and collaboration between photographer and subject.

Lessons from Herb Ritts’s Life & Work

1. Cultivate an eye, not just a technique.
   Ritts emphasized visual sensibility—the ability to see form, light, and composition—over rigid technical training.

2. Merge art and commerce without losing soul.
   He succeeded in fashion and advertising while maintaining stylistic integrity.

3. Trust in simplicity.
   His strongest images often employed minimal elements, letting the subject shine.

4. Build relationships with your subjects.
   His portraits often emanate comfort and trust; that rapport allowed vulnerability and authenticity.

5. Be persistent and evolve.
   He started modestly, experimented, learned, and expanded into directing, exhibitions, and legacy-building.

6. Legacy endures through curation and stewardship.
   His foundation, published works, and exhibitions ensure that new generations discover his vision.

Conclusion

Herb Ritts remains a pivotal figure in photography: a bridge between commercial success and artistic seriousness, between glamour and timeless form. His images, mostly in black and white, endure because they speak not only of fashion or celebrity, but of shape, light, and human presence. Though he passed at just 50, his influence endures. In the realms of fashion, portraiture, art, and visual culture, Ritts’s work still inspires photographers, stylists, and dreamers who seek to merge beauty, simplicity, and strength.

If you'd like, I can prepare a detailed timeline of his major works, or curate a selected gallery of 10 of his iconic photographs with commentary. Would you like me to do that?